Guest blogger Joe here, I'm giving Principessa Christina di Sicilia some time off for good behavior (and to cook dinner). We've had some technical difficulty, and since we don't know our hardware and software from our underwear, we are a couple of days behind in blog-o-land. But by wracking our tech-lacking pea brains, we think we've solved the problems and are back in the blog bidness.
We had a list of Sicilian wineries we had hoped to visit, including a few here in the Mt. Etna region. Diego and Karen suggested that we should visit Gambino, a winery that wasn't on our list, but we are so happy they suggested it. Their website indicated they were open every day for tasting, so I called Sunday morning to schedule a tasting for around noon. We made the twisty-turny 40 minute drive to the winery, which is located on the slopes of Mt. Etna, about 3,000 feet above sea level (Etna tops out at 11,000 feet). As we climbed the mountain, bright sunshine gave way to clouds and sun, and we felt a definite drop in temperature (more on that later).
We were greeted warmly by a young man and led to a beautiful window-lined room overlooking the vineyards. The room was heated by a wood-burning stove, and we were grateful to have been seated near it. We were introduced to several family members from Mama and Papa on down, and told the tasting would be 20 euros (about $28.00) each, which seemed a bit pricey, but when in Rome... They explained to us that this was a land of extremes - the volcano and the sea, the sun and the rain (and snow!), the volcanic lava soil, and at 3,000 feet, the maximum altitude for grape cultivation. We were beginning to realize just how extreme this tasting would be.
We were told we would be tasting several wines, all reds, and they would be accompanied by food. A basket of bread was brought to the table, along with the first wine, the bottle opened at the table. A generous glass was poured for each of us, and the bottle left at the table. As we were looking at each other slightly slack-jawed, a large tray of appetizers appeared, and was set between us... olives, sundried tomatoes, mushrooms, and their own olive oil for the bread.
Oops... time for dinner, please keep reading while we eat (roast chicken and potatoes, eggplant and fennel, and a bottle of Gambino Nero D' Avola. No chance I'll finish this post tonight, will resume in the morning..... OK, I'm back, its the next morning, but you're still at the wine tasting...
Then the next bottle appeared, was opened, glasses poured, and left at the table. Then bowls of yummy lentils and chickpeas, and a second food tray with four different local cheeses and salami was delivered. All of this food was sourced from within a few miles of the estate. And a third bottle was served, then a fourth, along with a plate of grilled sausages and caponata. All the while the relationship with Mama, Papa, and the other family members became stronger, as smiles amd winks became squeezes on the shoulder, pats on the back, and eventually hugs and kisses. By this time there were five bottles on the table, drink as much as you like. The food was simply but carefully prepared, and delicious, the wines outstanding.
When we finally looked up from this baccanalia, we realized it had been snowing for a while, and I mean really snowing! We were asked if we would like a tour of the wine making facilities (they apparently didn't ask any of the other twenty or so guests), and we of course quickly agreed. We had to go outside the cantina to a lower level to enter the actual winery, and did so through a driving snow storm! They weren't kidding when they said this is a land of extremes! After returning to the cantina, warming to the fire, and sipping a caffe' (espresso), we realized our amazing tasting was coming to an end. More hugs, kisses, and
salutations exchanged, we moved to the showroom area to pay and buy some wine to take with us. Our fave during the tasting was the Gambino Cantari (literally "to sing"), and asked for three bottles. We were informed that Mama had said to gift us a bottle of their most expensive Tifeo wine, made from Nerello Mascalese grapes, grown on these Etna slopes, and nowhere else in the world. What a lovely gesture, and another round of hugs and kisses exchanged, along with warm farewells.
As we left and walked through driving snow to the car, we couldn't stop talking about how these proud and passionate people, in such an extreme environment, create this amazing food and wine experience. The bottom line...? Two "tastings" at 20 euros, three bottles of wine at 9 euros... a free bottle... all in all done... 67 euros, about $90. We drove down the mountain to the coast, the snow subsided and the sun peeked out. By the time we reached sea level, the sun was out and it was fairly warm. Snow at the winery really is unusual, and summertime temps reach 100 degrees, an overall enviromment the grapes love.
If this lengthy post hasn't robbed you of every minute of spare time for the next two weeks, and you would like to see some great pictures of the Gambino winery, go to their site at www.vinigambino.it, click on the foto link, then on the azienda link.
That's all for now from guest blogster Joe. Along with the Principessa Christina, we're signing off, ciao e buon giorno!
pics won't fit on this blog page, so stay tuned...they're next !
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